Pathfinder SES Light: P1145 and P1140

For Pathfinder window bounce down when auto up or rolling up, check the Pathfinder Auto Window Bounce Down Craziness post.

Why It Happens

The P1145 and P1140 code my Pathy were throwing indicated that the cam sensors on both the driver side (P1145) and passenger side (P1140) were malfunctioning. They are known to get gummed up, and often do it around the same time. If you have one code, it is in your best interest to change both.

  • Cam Sensor Driver Side

    Driver side (highlighted red) – wire/bolt removed. Click to enlarge.
  • Cam Sensor  Passenger Side

    Passenger side (highlighted red) – wire removed. Click to enlarge.

To troubleshoot the issue, and you are throwing only one code or the other, you can switch the sensors and see if the code switches. For example, if you are throwing a P1145, switch the sensors, clear the code, and recheck the code when the SES light comes on again. If you get a P1140 after switching, then the sensor is bad. If you get the same code, you have a bad solenoid. But, if you hit the jackpot like I did with both codes (I actually started off with P1145 and by the time I got around to fixing it 2 months later, the other sensor died giving me the P1140 matching pair), switching them will not change a thing.


How to Fix It

The replacement sensor should cost around $75 (as of the date of this post) from the dealer. You can also find it online for less, but you will have to wait for it. Up to you. Currently, it is part number 23731-2Y52A. It is the same part for both sides. There are other sensors on the engine, so be careful not to confuse them.

Both sensors are held in place with 10mm bolts that can be the victim of corrosion. Be careful with these bolts. My passenger side sensor’s bolt rounded off immediately. I bought a set of Irwin Bolt-Grips and got it off no problem. I did, however, have to replace the bolt. The Bolt-Grips did not destroy the bolt, it was just too rounded to put back in. Also, both sensors will have a little of oil on them; that is normal.

The wire can be stubborn as well. Again, exercise caution. Resist the urge to yank on the wire itself. There is a tab on top that should be depressed while you grip the clip that plugs into the sensor. If you are having trouble unplugging the wire, try using a small screwdriver to press down on the tab while you pull back on the clip. Always grip the clip itself, not the wires.

  • Cam Sensor Replacement Part

    Replacement Part. Click to enlarge.

The driver side sensor is on top of the engine and, IMHO, the easiest to remove. Start by removing the plastic cover on the top of the engine. Set it and its bolts aside. Do not mix up the bolts with the sensor bolt. The engine exerts pressure on the sensor from the inside. If you use the wrong bolt to reattach it to the engine, it can come flying out of there. You will need to unplug a few of the wires above the sensor, but after that getting a wrench on it is cake. Wiggle it up and out; it has an o-ring gasket on it that seals it in place.

The passenger side is toward the front of the engine and is best reached by removing the battery first. It is jammed up in there at an angle which makes it difficult unless the battery is gone. As with the other, you will have to wiggle it a little to get it to come on out.

Once the sensor(s) are replaced, you can reset the SES light or just wait until it goes through a complete drive cycle and resets itself. A complete drive cycle requires the engine to get up to a certain temp for a certain period of time for the computer to take all its readings. Your personal driving habits will have a factor in how long that will take. Realistically, it should only be a few days of normal driving.

Helpful Info

Engine control info (PDF)

The sensors can found on amazon.

You can pick up a Haynes manual for 1996-2004 Pathfinders or a Chilton’s manual for 1996-2004 Pathfinders to keep your Pathy and your wallet happy for years to come.

  • How to manually get the code(s) and clear the SES light.

This may take several tries. Don’t get discouraged.

  1. Turn the ignition key to the ON position and wait three seconds. (Do not start the car.)
  2. Fully depress and release the accelerator pedal five times in less than five seconds.
  3. Wait exactly seven seconds.
  4. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and hold it down for about ten seconds until the MIL light begins flashing.
  5. Release the accelerator pedal and start counting flashes to obtain the four-digit trouble code.

Long flashes (0.6 seconds) indicate the first digit of the code; count the blinks one through nine and write down the first digit. (Ten blinks indicates a zero.) The next three digits follow in turn in the same fashion except with faster blinks (0.3 second) and a 1.0-second pause between digits.

The ECM code repeats itself until you turn the ignition key to the OFF position, at which point the ECM resets to standard get-in-and-drive-the-car mode. If you get four blinks of ten (0000), the ECM is indicating no malfunction.

You can clear the code (and the annoying MIL) by holding down the accelerator pedal for more than 10 seconds while in Diagnostic Test Mode II. When you release the pedal, the ECM erases the trouble code(s).

  • List of Pathfinder trouble codes.
  • P0000 No Self Diagnostic Failure Indicated
  • P0100 MAF Sensor
  • P0105 Absolute Pressure Sensor
  • P0110 IAT Sensor
  • P0115 ECT Sensor
  • P0120 TP Sensor
  • P0125 ECT Sensor
  • P0130 Closed Loop, Bank 1 Or Front O2S, Bank 1
  • P0131 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 1 Lean Shift Monitoring
  • P0132 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 1 Rich Shift Monitoring
  • P0133 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 1 Response Monitoring
  • P0134 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 1 High Voltage
  • P0135 Front HO2S Heater, Bank 1
  • P0136 Rear O2S, Bank 1
  • P0137 Rear O2S, Bank 1 Minimum Voltage Monitoring
  • P0138 Rear O2S, Bank 1 Maximum Voltage Monitoring
  • P0139 Rear O2S, Bank 1 Response Monitoring
  • P0140 Rear O2S, Bank 1 High Voltage
  • P0141 Rear H02S Heater, Bank 1
  • P0150 Closed Loop, Bank 2 Or Front O2S, Bank 2
  • P0151 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 2 Lean Shift Monitoring
  • P0152 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 2 Rich Shift Monitoring
  • P0153 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 2 Response Monitoring
  • P0154 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 2 High Voltage
  • P0155 Front HO2S Heater, Bank 2
  • P0156 Rear H02S Sensor, LH Bank
  • P0158 Rear O2 sensor, LH
  • P0159 Rear O2 sensor, RH
  • P0160 Rear O2S, Bank 2
  • P0161 Rear H02S Heater, LH Bank Or Bank 2
  • P0171 Fuel System Lean, Bank 1
  • P0172 Fuel System Rich, Bank 1
  • P0174 Fuel System Lean, Bank 2
  • P0175 Fuel System Rich, Bank 2
  • P0180 Tank Fuel Temp Sensor
  • P0300 Random Misfire
  • P0301-P0308 Misfire, Cylinder No. 1-8
  • P0325 Knock Sensor, Bank 1
  • P0330 Knock Sensor, Bank 2
  • P0335 CKP Sensor (Pos)
  • P0340 CMP
  • P0400 EGR System
  • P0402 EGRC/BPT Valve
  • P0403 EGR Volume Control Valve Circuit
  • P0420 TW Catalyst System, Bank 1
  • P0430 TW Catalyst System, Bank 2
  • P0440 EVAP Small Leak
  • P0443 Purge Control/V & S/V
  • P0446 Vent Control Valve
  • P0450 EVAP Pressure Sensor
  • P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor
  • P0505 IACV/AAC Valve
  • P0510 Closed TP Sensor
  • P0600 A/T Comm Line
  • P0605 ECM/ECU
  • P0705 PNP Or Inhibitor Switch
  • P0710 ATF Temp Sensor
  • P0720 VSS A/T
  • P0725 Engine Speed Signal
  • P0731 A/T 1ST Signal
  • P0732 A/T 2ND Signal
  • P0733 A/T 3RD Signal
  • P0734 A/T 4TH Signal Or TCC
  • P0740 TCC SV Solenoid
  • P0744 A/T TCC Signal
  • P0745 Line Pressure S/V
  • P0750 Shift Solenoid/V A
  • P0755 Shift Solenoid/V B
  • P1105 MAP/BARO Switch SOL/V
  • P1110 Intake Valve Timing Control, LH Bank
  • P1120 TP Sensor 2
  • P1125 Tandem TP Sensor
  • P1130 Swirl Control Valve Control Solenoid Valve
  • P1135 Intake Valve Timing Control, RH Bank 2
  • P1140 Intake Valve Timing Control Position Sensor, LH Bank 1
  • P1145 Intake Valve Timing Control Position Sensor, RH Bank 2
  • P1148 Closed Loop, Bank 1
  • P1165 Swirl Control Valve Control Vacuum Check Switch
  • P1168 Closed Loop, Bank 2
  • P1210 Traction Control Signal Circuit
  • P1220 FPCM
  • P1320 Ignition Signal, Primary
  • P1335 CKP Sensor (Ref)
  • P1336 CKP Sensor (POS) Cog
  • P1400 EGRC Solenoid/V
  • P1401 EGR Temp Sensor
  • P1402 EGR System
  • P1440 EVAP Small Leak
  • P1441 VC/V Bypass/V
  • P1443 Canister Control Vacuum Check Switch
  • P1444 Purge Volume Control/V
  • P1445 Purge Volume Control/V
  • P1446 Vent Control Valve
  • P1447 EVAP Purge Flow
  • P1448 Vent Control Valve
  • P1490 VC/V Bypass/V
  • P1491 VC Cut/V Bypass/V
  • P1492 Purge Control/V S/V
  • P1493 Purge Control/V & S/V
  • P1605 A/T Diag Comm Line
  • P1705 TP Sensor A/T
  • P1706 PNP Switch
  • P1760 Overrun Clutch S/V
  • P1900 Cooling Fan
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  1. June 14, 2011 at 6:58 pm | Permalink

    I purchased the bolt from the dealership. You may be able to take yours down to an auto parts store and get a replacement. The dealership didn’t act like it was anything special and just matched it up with the one I brought to them.

  2. bj
    June 14, 2011 at 6:32 pm | Permalink

    Where did you get the replacement 10 mm sensor bolt?

  3. March 23, 2011 at 12:28 pm | Permalink

    See if your mechanic or the dealer can check the solenoids before you spend the money. Solenoids and most electrical parts cannot be returned. But, it sounds like you already know that.

  4. Shaderia
    March 23, 2011 at 12:09 pm | Permalink

    After reading your blogs and making sense of everything myself, I thought I'd bounce the solenoids off of you once again before I spent $300 in parts.
    OH!!!! ALSO!!!! If you're still throwing the P1140 and P1145 codes, would that automatically mean it's both solenoids?

  5. Shaderia
    March 23, 2011 at 12:06 pm | Permalink

    Me again….I've already changed bay 1 and bay 2 cam shaft sensors due to P1140 and P1145 codes. The guy at the dealer who spoke to his technician, explained that the cam shaft senso, or timing position control sensor, (same part) detects or "SENSES" movement in the engine. I've replaced both cam sensors…and they couldn't come up with anything else that would throw those codes except "oil pressure" which I don't think is right.
    SO….I'VE DECIDED that since the sensors "sense" movement and solenoids move and there's a solenoid on each side near each cam sensor, wouldn't it make sense that the solenoid could also possibly be out? If something in there's not moving and I've kept my oil changes up, so I know there's no 'SLUDGE', and have brand new sensors, I'm thinking the sensors were possibly picking up on something else in the engine. …and I think it narrows it down to the solenoids. Thoughts?