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Pathfinder SES Light: P1145 and P1140
General
Tags: nissan, p1140, p1145, pathfinder, ses
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I love my 2002 Pathfinder, but hate the SES (service engine soon AKA check engine) light. It would be easier to figure out Stonehenge than to get this light to shut off. It should not be that difficult with a vehicle. Personally I think the SES and check engine lights on modern vehicles are deliberately vague, purposely preventing the average shade tree mechanic from making repairs. Conspiracy theories aside, here is what I did to fix my Pathy.
Why It Happens
The P1145 and P1140 code my Pathy were throwing indicated that the cam sensors on both the driver side (P1145) and passenger side (P1140) were malfunctioning. They are known to get gummed up, and often do it around the same time. If you have one code, it is in your best interest to change both.
To troubleshoot the issue, and you are throwing only one code or the other, you can switch the sensors and see if the code switches. For example, if you are throwing a P1145, switch the sensors, clear the code, and recheck the code when the SES light comes on again. If you get a P1140 after switching, then the sensor is bad. If you get the same code, you have a bad solenoid. But, if you hit the jackpot like I did with both codes (I actually started off with P1145 and by the time I got around to fixing it 2 months later, the other sensor died giving me the P1140 matching pair), switching them will not change a thing.

How to Fix It
The replacement sensor should cost around $75 (as of the date of this post) from the dealer. You can also find it online for less, but you will have to wait for it. Up to you. Currently, it is part number 23731-2Y52A. It is the same part for both sides. There are other sensors on the engine, so be careful not to confuse them.
Both sensors are held in place with 10mm bolts that can be the victim of corrosion. Be careful with these bolts. My passenger side sensor’s bolt rounded off immediately. I bought a set of Irwin Bolt-Grips and got it off no problem. I did, however, have to replace the bolt. The Bolt-Grips did not destroy the bolt, it was just too rounded to put back in. Also, both sensors will have a little of oil on them; that is normal.
The wire can be stubborn as well. Again, exercise caution. Resist the urge to yank on the wire itself. There is a tab on top that should be depressed while you grip the clip that plugs into the sensor. If you are having trouble unplugging the wire, try using a small screwdriver to press down on the tab while you pull back on the clip. Always grip the clip itself, not the wires.
The driver side sensor is on top of the engine and, IMHO, the easiest to remove. Start by removing the plastic cover on the top of the engine. Set it and its bolts aside. Do not mix up the bolts with the sensor bolt. The engine exerts pressure on the sensor from the inside. If you use the wrong bolt to reattach it to the engine, it can come flying out of there. You will need to unplug a few of the wires above the sensor, but after that getting a wrench on it is cake. Wiggle it up and out; it has an o-ring gasket on it that seals it in place.
The passenger side is toward the front of the engine and is best reached by removing the battery first. It is jammed up in there at an angle which makes it difficult unless the battery is gone. As with the other, you will have to wiggle it a little to get it to come on out.
Once the sensor(s) are replaced, you can reset the SES light or just wait until it goes through a complete drive cycle and resets itself. A complete drive cycle requires the engine to get up to a certain temp for a certain period of time for the computer to take all its readings. Your personal driving habits will have a factor in how long that will take. Realistically, it should only be a few days of normal driving.
Helpful Info
Thanks to pathfinder’s comment below, the sensors can found on amazon.
You can pick up a Haynes manual for 1996-2004 Pathfinders and an Actron CP9125 PocketScan Code Reader
to keep your Pathy and your wallet happy for years to come.
This may take several tries. Don’t get discouraged.
- Turn the ignition key to the ON position and wait three seconds. (Do not start the car.)
- Fully depress and release the accelerator pedal five times in less than five seconds.
- Wait exactly seven seconds.
- Fully depress the accelerator pedal and hold it down for about ten seconds until the MIL light begins flashing.
- Release the accelerator pedal and start counting flashes to obtain the four-digit trouble code.
Long flashes (0.6 seconds) indicate the first digit of the code; count the blinks one through nine and write down the first digit. (Ten blinks indicates a zero.) The next three digits follow in turn in the same fashion except with faster blinks (0.3 second) and a 1.0-second pause between digits.
The ECM code repeats itself until you turn the ignition key to the OFF position, at which point the ECM resets to standard get-in-and-drive-the-car mode. If you get four blinks of ten (0000), the ECM is indicating no malfunction.
You can clear the code (and the annoying MIL) by holding down the accelerator pedal for more than 10 seconds while in Diagnostic Test Mode II. When you release the pedal, the ECM erases the trouble code(s).
- P0000 No Self Diagnostic Failure Indicated
- P0100 MAF Sensor
- P0105 Absolute Pressure Sensor
- P0110 IAT Sensor
- P0115 ECT Sensor
- P0120 TP Sensor
- P0125 ECT Sensor
- P0130 Closed Loop, Bank 1 Or Front O2S, Bank 1
- P0131 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 1 Lean Shift Monitoring
- P0132 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 1 Rich Shift Monitoring
- P0133 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 1 Response Monitoring
- P0134 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 1 High Voltage
- P0135 Front HO2S Heater, Bank 1
- P0136 Rear O2S, Bank 1
- P0137 Rear O2S, Bank 1 Minimum Voltage Monitoring
- P0138 Rear O2S, Bank 1 Maximum Voltage Monitoring
- P0139 Rear O2S, Bank 1 Response Monitoring
- P0140 Rear O2S, Bank 1 High Voltage
- P0141 Rear H02S Heater, Bank 1
- P0150 Closed Loop, Bank 2 Or Front O2S, Bank 2
- P0151 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 2 Lean Shift Monitoring
- P0152 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 2 Rich Shift Monitoring
- P0153 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 2 Response Monitoring
- P0154 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 2 High Voltage
- P0155 Front HO2S Heater, Bank 2
- P0156 Rear H02S Sensor, LH Bank
- P0158 Rear O2 sensor, LH
- P0159 Rear O2 sensor, RH
- P0160 Rear O2S, Bank 2
- P0161 Rear H02S Heater, LH Bank Or Bank 2
- P0171 Fuel System Lean, Bank 1
- P0172 Fuel System Rich, Bank 1
- P0174 Fuel System Lean, Bank 2
- P0175 Fuel System Rich, Bank 2
- P0180 Tank Fuel Temp Sensor
- P0300 Random Misfire
- P0301-P0308 Misfire, Cylinder No. 1-8
- P0325 Knock Sensor, Bank 1
- P0330 Knock Sensor, Bank 2
- P0335 CKP Sensor (Pos)
- P0340 CMP
- P0400 EGR System
- P0402 EGRC/BPT Valve
- P0403 EGR Volume Control Valve Circuit
- P0420 TW Catalyst System, Bank 1
- P0430 TW Catalyst System, Bank 2
- P0440 EVAP Small Leak
- P0443 Purge Control/V & S/V
- P0446 Vent Control Valve
- P0450 EVAP Pressure Sensor
- P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor
- P0505 IACV/AAC Valve
- P0510 Closed TP Sensor
- P0600 A/T Comm Line
- P0605 ECM/ECU
- P0705 PNP Or Inhibitor Switch
- P0710 ATF Temp Sensor
- P0720 VSS A/T
- P0725 Engine Speed Signal
- P0731 A/T 1ST Signal
- P0732 A/T 2ND Signal
- P0733 A/T 3RD Signal
- P0734 A/T 4TH Signal Or TCC
- P0740 TCC SV Solenoid
- P0744 A/T TCC Signal
- P0745 Line Pressure S/V
- P0750 Shift Solenoid/V A
- P0755 Shift Solenoid/V B
- P1105 MAP/BARO Switch SOL/V
- P1110 Intake Valve Timing Control, LH Bank
- P1120 TP Sensor 2
- P1125 Tandem TP Sensor
- P1130 Swirl Control Valve Control Solenoid Valve
- P1135 Intake Valve Timing Control, RH Bank 2
- P1140 Intake Valve Timing Control Position Sensor, LH Bank 1
- P1145 Intake Valve Timing Control Position Sensor, RH Bank 2
- P1148 Closed Loop, Bank 1
- P1165 Swirl Control Valve Control Vacuum Check Switch
- P1168 Closed Loop, Bank 2
- P1210 Traction Control Signal Circuit
- P1220 FPCM
- P1320 Ignition Signal, Primary
- P1335 CKP Sensor (Ref)
- P1336 CKP Sensor (POS) Cog
- P1400 EGRC Solenoid/V
- P1401 EGR Temp Sensor
- P1402 EGR System
- P1440 EVAP Small Leak
- P1441 VC/V Bypass/V
- P1443 Canister Control Vacuum Check Switch
- P1444 Purge Volume Control/V
- P1445 Purge Volume Control/V
- P1446 Vent Control Valve
- P1447 EVAP Purge Flow
- P1448 Vent Control Valve
- P1490 VC/V Bypass/V
- P1491 VC Cut/V Bypass/V
- P1492 Purge Control/V S/V
- P1493 Purge Control/V & S/V
- P1605 A/T Diag Comm Line
- P1705 TP Sensor A/T
- P1706 PNP Switch
- P1760 Overrun Clutch S/V
- P1900 Cooling Fan
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39 Comments for Pathfinder SES Light: P1145 and P1140
[...] I was throwing both codes, P1145 and P1140. I replaced both sensors on a Saturday and the SES went off by itself on Tuesday. I found complete instructions here: jensbits.com Blog Archive Pathfinder SES Light: P1145 and P1140 [...]
Dad
September 24, 2008
Good going Jennifer those pesky codes will drive you nuts. I don’t use my code reader much, but every now and then it comes in handy. I do believe a lot of the service codes are market driven, especially the scheduled service codes and reminders. I drive the dealers crazy when I do my own service and clear the codes. No fat service bills for simple oil and filter changes. Example, Marjorie’s ML320 was due spark plug change so I checked with the dealer – $100.00 per plug so it didn’t take a math major to figure the cost of 12 plugs plus tax. I did the job at a cost of about $40.00 and three hours(ML’s are bad to work on).
Take Care
Love to you all
Antonio
October 9, 2008
Good work Jen…
I just bought a 2001 Pathfinder LE and it came with the SES light already on. The seller told me it came on but didn’t “feel” anything wrong with the truck.
Took it to the shop, read the codes and the P1145 came out. I’m about to follow the instructions to see if it’s the Solenoid or the Sensor but, if it’s a sensor issue I have a question…
Since I don’t “feel” anything wrong with the Pathy (because I haven’t drove it without the SES light on) What would I expect in terms of the “feeling”, Am I going to have better acceleration? Better miles per gallon? Better timing between gear changes? in short… What’s going to be improved?
By the way, I found the part at Autozone (SKU: SU5352 @ $79.99)
Thanks and keep the good work.
Antonio,
The cam sensor monitors the position of the cam shaft and sends that information back to the ECM to improve performance. It may cause performance issues, but in my case it did not. I had no issues with gas mileage, timing, or acceleration. I drove around for a couple of months with no problems except the “glowing like the fires of hell” SES light. And, it turned out I had both codes for both sensors by the time I fixed it.
I’m sorry your Pathy came with the SES light already on for something like this. It’s such an easy fix. Good luck and let me know how it goes.
Glenn
November 11, 2008
All i can say is thank you!!!
@Glenn
You’re welcome.
Jen – I’ve got a 2001 Pathfinder SE….I’m throwing 6 codes:
P1320, P0301 (#1 Cylinder Ignition Coil issue and spark plug, apparently), P0138 & P0139 which my service guy thinks will clear with the replacement of the ignition coil, and P0158 & P1140. I’m sick of the light being on – been 2 years now throwing that 0158 & 1140. I’m not paying nearly $600 to have my dealer take care of the sensors, I’m going to do this on my own. So my question is this: Location of sensors – are they in the same general area as in the description of the 2002 model mentioned above? Any other advice?
@Jennifer
For the P1140, you can certainly do this yourself and, for the 2001 and 2002 Pathfinder, the engines should be very similar if not identical. There are two engine sizes, 3.3L and 3.5L, but I don’t believe the sensor locations differ. I have a 3.5L. As far as advice goes, buy yourself a manual. There is a link to a Haynes manual in the post. Thoroughly research the repair before attempting. Some of these I would not recommend you do, and I don’t attempt to repair them myself unless I fully know what I am doing. The instructions in the post will get you through the P1140 code. For any of the codes that you believe will need professional repair, find a good mechanic. Go to cartalk.com’s ‘Mechanics Files’ (http://cartalk.com/content/mechx/) to find a good one in your area. The dealers in my area are no bargain.
Remember, it will take a few days for the P1140 code to clear, but it will provided it was a gummed up sensor in the first place.
Let me know how you make out. Good luck.
Follow up question for ya -
I’ve been reading a lot today and I’ve come across this:
“If you have codes P0138, P0139 or P0140, replace the rear RH O2 sensor with the following part, based on pro date:
Built up to 8/1/00: P/N: 226A0-4W001
Built on 8/2/00 or later: P/N: 226A0-4W010
Well….that’s something I don’t know how to figure out. Any advice how to find out what my pro date is?
Thanks again!
jen
December 12, 2008
@Jennifer
You can find your production date through your VIN number. Call any Nissan dealer’s service department and ask them to give you the pro date based on your VIN.
Also, try looking at the tag that should be affixed inside the driver side door. That tag has info regarding tire pressure among other things; the pro date might be there. I believe there is also another tag inside the engine compartment. Try looking around those two places before calling the dealer. I would check myself, but, unfortunately, I’m away from home (and my Pathy) at the moment.
BTW, I also had an auto window bounce down every time I tried to roll it up. If you encounter that problem, I have a fix for you…
Jeff w
January 19, 2009
THnak you soo much for creating a page liek this. THis is exactly what I was looking for when my 1140 came up. First the ses light was on and I changed the MAF, 3 weeks later the ses came back on. I assumed that it was the MAF I installed but code was 1140. I will order a new sensor and replace to see if this solves it. I bookmarked this page and I will let you know. Thank you.
Jeff w
January 19, 2009
Oh yea people, you can clear the ecu yourself by unplugging the battery overnight.
jack
May 7, 2009
so i was on here looking for information on where i would find my iat sensor on my 2001 pathfinder se 3.5l, which im still looking for but i also noticed you mentioned finding a solution to the window bounce thing my passenger side front does it how do i fix it?
@jack
Thanks for reminding me to post this fix. Here you go: http://www.jensbits.com/2009/05/07/pathfinder-auto-window-bounce-down-craziness/
Kash
May 30, 2009
You mentioned you can reset the SES light manually, how do you do that?
@Kash
The instructions for manually resetting the light can be found in the post. Click on “How to manually get the code(s) and clear the SES light” above the instructions should slide open for you.
nelson
June 19, 2009
Thanks for your help it worked thank you all
juan
July 31, 2009
my pathfinder 2001 had p1145 code and i replaced cam sensor on driver side but after two weeks p1145 code still came back.
please help!!!!
@juan
You can troubleshoot this situation by switching the sensors. It’s explained in the post but if you switch them and get the same code, it’s the solenoid. If you get the other code (in your case p1140), then it’s the sensor. When you pull the driver side sensor, take a good look at it. If there is a gummy film on it, you have got sludge in your engine.
The sensors are bathed in the engine oil. If that’s nasty, it could be causing the sensor to fail prematurely.
juan
August 1, 2009
what is a solenoid and where is located?
@juan
A solenoid is a type of electronic switch or control that acts on any number of devices or valves in an automobile.
In this case, the solenoid referred to is the intake timing valve solenoid. There is a right and left solenoid located near each sensor respectively.
For an exact location, you will need an engine diagram which can be found in the Haynes manual or downloaded online. Just do a google search on your engine.
Ronaldo Menezes
September 14, 2009
Hi. I had this P1145 code. Took it to my mechanic who said I should take it to the dealer because he couldn’t be sure if it was the sensor only and at the dealer they can. The dealer said it was the sensor and ordered it for me but they want to change me 2 hours labor to install it. Is this right? My mechanic said it is a 10 minute job and that I could even do it myself. The dealer said it longer because
the “computer has to be reprogrammed”. Please help. I suspect my dealer is trying to charge me more than necessary but I really don’t know.
Thanks in advance.
@Ronaldo
I changed both of my sensors myself. My Pathfinder’s computer reset itself after a few days of normal driving. If you need an inspection right away, then the dealer may have to reset the computer to enable you to pass. When the computer resets itself and the check engine light turns off, you will pass inspection unless, of course, something else on the inspection fails.
This is completely up to you. Do whatever your more comfortable with.
Ronaldo Menezes
September 14, 2009
Thank you very much. No I don’t need to pass any inspection. So I guess I’ll do it myself.
Jennifer
September 14, 2009
Hey, Jen, it’s Jen from 12/12/08. Replaced all my O2 sensors and I’m still popping the P1140 code. I’m having my repair guy take another look at it tonight – he had to splice the wires, so I’m hoping he switched them or something. Any other advice? I’m worried about this solenoid thing.. I live in Illinois and I have to pass an emissions test in order to renew my license plates (read: SCAM) and I’m up against the wall here….
@Jen
Don’t know what your mechanic did with the wires but…sometimes the ECM holds on to a code and won’t let it go. And, the p1140 has nothing to do with the O2 sensors as you know. Did you replace the passenger side cam sensor on the engine?
Ronaldo Menezes
September 14, 2009
Unfortunately it did not work for me either. I replaced the sensor and cleared the code (my mechanic did) but it went back on. I’m guessing I’ll be getting the same code (p1140). I’m sure in my case it is something simple because my pathfinder has only about 40k miles. The sensor I replaced was the one on the passenger side.
Any other ideas of what I could do?
@Ronaldo
Check the code to make sure you are getting the p1140 again. Any auto parts store (AutoZone, NAPA) should check it for you for free. If you are getting the same code, switch your right and left sensors, clear the code, and wait for the light to come on. If you get the same code after you switch the sensors, then you probably have a bad solenoid. If you get the p1145, then you got a bad sensor. Also, these sensors can be affected by engine sludge. If you haven’t had an oil change in quite some time, the oil may be gunking up the sensor.
Sorry, last comment was for Ronaldo…
Ronaldo Menezes
September 14, 2009
Jen this is one part that I don’t understand. Everywhere I read that I can use the sensor on either side. On my Pathfinder 2002 (SE) this is not the case. When my mechanic installed the sensor today he also thought it would be interchangeable but the sensor on the driver side is completely different from the one one on the passenger side (the one I changed and the one that was diagnosed as bad by the dealer). So I can’t do this test.
As for the oil, it is not the case in my car as this was the first thing we tried with my mechanic. He changed the oil and filter. In fact the entire system was “flushed”. So right now the car, has new oil, new filter, a new sensor on the passenger side and a old sensor on the driver side, but the sensors are not the same.
thanks again for your help.
@Ronaldo
That’s odd. I have a 2002 Pathfinder SE with a 3.5L V6 engine and the sensors on the right and left are identical. I changed them out myself. There are other sensors on the engine that can be confused with these. Double check that you are looking at the correct sensors.
If they are indeed different, then that’s unusual as the Nissan forums on the web that discuss this issue agree that the sensors are the same for both sides of the engine.
Ryan
September 21, 2009
I too was throwing the P1140 code so I just changed my driver side sensor on my 2002 Infiniti QX4 and am waiting for the code to turn off after a few days of normal driving. It took me about 15 minutes. Couldn’t have done it without this blog. Saved myself a ton. Thanks Jen.
@Ryan
Great. Code should clear on its own. I fixed mine on a Saturday and it shut off on the following Tuesday.
Oneill
October 7, 2009
Greetings, I recently bought a Nissan Pathfinder LE 2002, 3.5L engine (55,800 miles on it). After an oil change, the “check engine” light turned on and im getting the P0022 code. The code description says its “A” camshaft sensor solenoid – advanced degree Bank 2. Now I tested the harness that goes into the sensor and everything is ok. Removed and cleaned the sensor, cleared the codes on the ECU, but after a few minutes of driving it comes back on.
Im getting really poor gas mileage on my pathfinder right now. A full gas tank only lasted 160 miles and it was back at empty again. I removed the 2 camshaft sensors but they are not the same, the left one has 2 wires and the right one has 3 wires, so I cant exchange them to do the test.
Do you know where the camshaft solenoid is located? Is it visible or do I have to take out the valve cover to see it? Any suggestions? Thanks for your time!
@Oneill
Try taking it to a mechanic and have them point out the parts for you.
pathfinder
December 15, 2009
P1140 (passenger side) and P1145 (driver side on top) are same part number. The sensor is made by Standard Motor Products, part number PC458. I found the part on amazon.com for $58 (free shipping).
John
February 22, 2010
Hi Jen, tried your trick. Was getting the passenger side code thrown so I swapped the sensors. Couple hundred miles later, the code stayed put and didn't follow the "bad" sensor. So the next step would be that solenoid. Where on/in the engine should I be looking for this thing at? Thanks for your help!
@John
Make sure to clear the codes after switching the sensors. The computer in these vehicles is very rudimentary. Codes can 'stick'.
After far as the solenoids go, I updated the post with a picture from a repair manual.
The sensors are pretty easy to change out and usually go in pairs. If one fails, the other is not too far behind.
Eric
March 9, 2010
Great info here Jen! I had an 1145 code on my 01 Pathfinder. Your detailed instructions made it easy for me to replace this $60 part in about 30 minutes. The part was easy to see but somewhat harder to wiggle out due to all the wiring around it. Unplugging some of the wiring directly above the part made replacing much easier. My SES went off after the repair and my gas mileage is up again. Thank you!
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2001 PATHFINDER - CODE P1145 - Nissanhelp.com
September 4, 2008